When to plant peach trees

When to plant a peach tree

The RHS peach guide says late autumn, when the soil is warm and damp, is usually a good time to plant a peach tree. Planting between November and March is also fine, and that is when bare-root trees are available.

Container-grown trees can potentially be planted at any time, the guide says, but they settle in best from late autumn to spring. Whatever kind you buy, avoid planting in hot, dry conditions.

Other RHS pages give windows for fruit trees, or all trees, in general. The RHS fruit gardening calendar plants fruit trees and bushes any time from November to February, unless the ground is frozen or waterlogged. The RHS planting guide for all trees and shrubs says planting is best done between October and April, and to avoid waterlogged soil or soil frozen too hard to get the spade in.

Garden Organic's October advice is to plant new fruit trees and bushes that month, while the soil is still warm, so the roots can start to grow before winter. It notes that bare-root plants usually cost less than pot-grown ones.

So the sources agree on late autumn. The RHS peach guide runs on to March, the general tree guide to April.

Where to plant: a warm, sunny wall

Peach trees are best planted against a south or south-west-facing wall or fence, the RHS peach guide says, in a sunny, sheltered spot. It is vital to choose a site that isn't prone to frosts, which can damage the blossom.

Only plant peaches as free-standing trees in really warm, sheltered locations where spring frosts are unlikely, the guide adds.

Soil. Peaches like deep, fertile, well-drained soil. If your soil is poor, the RHS mixes garden compost or other organic matter into the backfill.

Hardiness. Peach trees are generally hardy in the UK, the RHS says, but their blossom is susceptible to frost damage. The RHS entry for the variety 'Rochester' rates it H4, hardy through most of the UK, and gives its aspect as west or south-facing, sheltered, in full sun. That is a slightly different aspect from the peach guide's south or south-west, so check the entry for the variety you buy.

How to plant

Before planting. The RHS soaks a bare-root tree in water for half an hour. It waters a container-grown tree thoroughly.

Against a wall. Plant the tree 20–30 cm away from the wall, angled slightly towards it, and fix horizontal wires to support the branches. Leave room: fan-trained peaches can reach a width of 3.5–5 m, depending on the variety.

Free-standing. Support the tree with sturdy stakes until it is established, the peach guide says. The RHS planting guide for all trees and shrubs adds that after two growing seasons a tree should have made enough roots to anchor itself, and the stake can be removed.

Hole and depth. The general planting guide digs a hole no deeper than the roots, ideally at least three times the diameter of the root system. Position the tree so the first flare of roots is level with the soil surface when planting is complete. Deep planting prevents essential air movement to the roots, the guide says, and planting too deep is a common cause of tree death.

Bare-root trees should be planted immediately. If that is not possible, the guide says they can be heeled in.

Rootstock. Most peaches are grafted onto the rootstock 'St Julian A', which restricts the tree's vigour and size, the RHS says.

One tree is enough

All peach varieties are self-fertile, the RHS peach guide says, so you only need one tree for a good crop.

Peaches flower early, when few pollinating insects are about, so the RHS recommends hand pollination. In a greenhouse it is essential.

Frost at flowering. If frost is forecast while the tree is in flower, the RHS covers it overnight with biodegradable fleece or similar, held off the flowers, and uncovers it by day. The RHS entry for 'Rochester' also protects the flowers with biodegradable horticultural fleece.

Water, mulch and feed after planting

Water. Newly planted peach trees need regular watering in dry spells for their first couple of years, the RHS peach guide says. Fan-trained trees against a wall can sit in a rain shadow and may need extra water. The RHS planting guide for all trees and shrubs suggests typically 30–50 litres per square metre, or 4–6 watering cans, each week in dry weather during the growing season.

Mulch. The peach guide applies a mulch of well-rotted organic matter, such as garden compost, in late winter or spring, leaving a gap around the trunk. The planting guide leaves a collar of 10 cm around the woody stem free of mulch.

Feed. Peach trees in regularly mulched soil should not need extra feeding, the RHS says. If harvests are poor, it applies an organic granular general-purpose fertiliser in early spring.

Garden Organic's January advice is to clear weeds and grass from around fruit trees, especially newly planted and young ones.

Peach leaf curl and the winter rain shelter

Peach leaf curl is caused by the fungus *Taphrina deformans*, the RHS says. Soon after the leaves open in spring, they become crumpled, thickened and distorted, often red, with a white bloom of spores. Diseased leaves fall fast, and the tree loses vigour.

Wet conditions are needed for the spring infections. So where peaches are trained against a fence or wall, the RHS says a rain shelter of plastic sheeting is very effective at preventing infection. It should cover the top of the tree and the front to within 30 cm of the ground, with the ends open so pollinating insects can get in. Put it up after leaf fall in November and keep it in place until mid-May. Keeping the shoots dry also gives useful frost protection.

Other sources give different dates. The RHS fruit in containers page covers peaches and apricots with a lean-to shelter from autumn to late winter. Garden Organic's January advice is to build a rainproof structure over fan-trained peaches that have had leaf curl, and to have it in place before the buds begin to grow.

There are no fungicides available to home gardeners for peach leaf curl, the RHS says. Removing infected leaves before the white spores appear helps reduce the fungus carried over to the next year.

A few varieties offer some resistance, the peach guide says. The leaf curl page lists peaches for which some resistance is claimed: 'Avalon Pride', 'Red Haven', 'Harken', 'Dixired', 'Redwing', 'Advance', 'Hylands', 'Robin Red Breast' and 'Rochester'.

Peaches in pots

The RHS peach guide grows peaches in containers at least 45 cm wide and deep, filled with a good loam-based compost. Patio or dwarf varieties suit pots. Potted trees can be moved to protect them against frost and peach leaf curl.

The RHS fruit in containers page says fruit trees can be planted in containers at any time of year, but spring (March or April) is a particularly good time. For peaches and nectarines in containers it lists the rootstocks Pixy or St Julien A, and it rates John Innes No 3 compost as ideal.

Mix controlled-release fertiliser pellets into the compost, or feed fortnightly with a high-potassium liquid tomato feed. Water generously, but let the surface of the compost dry out before the next watering, without it becoming bone dry.

When to prune a new peach tree

The RHS peach guide prunes peaches only in spring or summer, to reduce the risk of silver leaf and bacterial canker. Prune a newly planted tree soon after the buds open in early spring, on a dry day with dry weather forecast.

Garden Organic is more cautious. Its October advice says do not prune cherries, plums, peaches and apricots in autumn, but wait until spring. Its January advice says not to prune stone fruits until May, when the risk of silver leaf infection is past.

So both say no autumn or winter pruning. They differ on how early in spring to start.